Showing posts with label Sgurr Dearg. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sgurr Dearg. Show all posts

Saturday

Skye Scrambles - In Pinn Ascent

Classic Climbers 
on Skye
Sunday 1 May 2011
Scoffing our lunch rations we were entertained by the conveyor belt of people ascending the east ridge and abseiling the short west ridge.


Sitting on the summit of Sgurr Dearg observing the other scramblers and climbers, we realised that we didn't have much gear between us.

Nibbles over, we wandered carefully down the slabs and scree, under the south face of the Inaccesible Pinnacle, to the foot of the east ridge.
If you are a rock climber this is easy, if you are a scrambler it's about as hard a challenge you'd want, if a hillwalker - it will induce fear!
Everyone was chatty (nervous) as we stood about in the sun - some moved up the rock with more confidence than others.
Glad this wasn't the Alps - or it would have been a free for all.....
Our turn eventually came, Andy was lead.
Not a lot of protection used!
It is spectacularly narrow and exposed. There are vertical drops on either side - you need a good head for heights.
Bill  on belay - staring into the void on the Coruisk side, it's a long, long way down.
Note the lack of vegetation on the upper slopes, most of it is bare rock or unstable scree.
Looking north from the belay stance, the Bealach Coire na Banachdich is a lonely and unfrequented spot. Not a place for the ordinary pedestrian.
Once on top there comes a sense of relief. 
The east ridge is only two 'mod' rock climbing pitches, but the exposure is dramatic. Some holds are polished, some bomb proof - 
as they say, most climbing is 'mental' - aptly summing up this crazy summit.

We had a few moments to wait for our descent, and had good banter with the other groups on the top.
Everyone was totally relaxed, it was that kind of day.
The fun bit; the abseil down the short west side -
 'Just enjoy the experience'
Bill was securely clipped in to take this picture!
We took a slagging as we removed our gear on Sgurr Dearg.
That's what we get for each using our Whillans Sit Harness, with virtually no kit!
'Traditionalists' - we laughed out loud at the comments.

Must buy some modern 'shiny things' soon.....

The constant stream of ascents continued.
Our descent was down our ascent route; oh joy.
Shame not to have time to scramble round Coire Lagan - but Andy's on chef duty tonight.

Will this scree be as bad going down as it was coming up?
Go for it!
Speed was real - descent very rapid. All you need is confidence.
Turns out to be a great way down, as long as you keep the momentum going.
Hot feet deserve a refresing dunk in the coire lochan.
Bill - soaking up the sun as his scree pounded feet appreciate the icy water.
Hot rock; fantastic views; thirsty; thoughts of beer.......
Glenbrittle was an oasis of green after a day of glaring sun off rock.
......did the others wait to see if Bill and Andy returned safely? Well they did wait, but drove off 10 minutes before they arrived back at the car....


How did they arrive back at Bundalloch after Bill and Andy?


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Tuesday

Skye Scrambles - Inaccessible Pinnacle


Sgurr Dearg
Sunday 1 May 2011
The glorious weather looked set to hold for a few days more. 
Skye is absolute heaven in dry, sunny conditions with no midges.

Glen Brittle campsite was busy, good to see so many people enjoying themselves.

We started out as a group but soon split up as we all had different objectives. Bill and Andy had decided on 'The Round of Coire Lagan' - so strode on ahead.
The moorland path has been much improved over the years, it's no longer a soggy mess.
There is always a tingle of anticipation on first sight of Coire Lagan summits, it's a special place.
Perfect blue skies, and blazing sun - it was very warm.
Canna floated in the background like some south sea island....underfoot the rough slabs made for rapid progress, but today it was hot-hot work.
Coire Lagan definitely has WOW factor. 
Sgurr Mhic Connich, Sgurr Alasdair and the cliffs of Sgurr Sgumain all compete to grab your attention. You can clearly see the scree chute from Sgurr Alasdair is well worn.
Third breakfast spot - what a view.
The An Stac scree looked uninviting, Bill couldn't remember much about the route - just that he had been up it before........he would soon curse his lack of memory.
This was horrendous, awful, dreadful, (and much worse words)....three steps up - two back.

Soul destroying as well as sole destroying.
Head down, plod, plod, plod....
Eventually the screes eased off and a way was picked around to the base of our first target.

The Inaccessible Pinnacle sticks up like a big sharks fin from this angle, it looks awesome.
You can't help but worry about dislodged rocks hurtling toward you; neither Bill or Andy carried a helmet.

The ground underfoot isn't easy, it demands attention as a slip would see you disappearing down the An Stac cliffs.
Splendid - absolutely superb - this is what Skye's all about.
The In-Pinn summit and abseil descent
Mmmm, bit busy down there, that didn't figure in today's plans!
The queue was about 45 minutes, and a couple doing the full ridge decided to skip the In Pinn.
You have to be adaptable - we realised our Coire Lagan round wasn't feasible. 

Between the slow scree ascent in the hot sun, and a summit queue, the decision was made to 'just enjoy the experience'


Just what exactly does that mean............?


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